![]() ![]() It is something i wanted to repair as it would look better if the casing was still intact with the ones from the headlights or interior that i've seen. These are usually cold starts once im out and running errands it starts right up. These are good points i discovered the rear ground to the engine block when doing the torque tube.Īs i think the maf, Tac module maybe tied onto this if one of the terminals were too loose or not making contact with the white solid metal end connector it would have trouble starting. Mine is just as this its missing the black casing and just the bare terminals were depinned or the casing had corroded from battery acid and all thats left is the white top with the terminals individually pushed on. For any further ground points that fail on my car, I am bringing out my soldering gun.ĭoes the black part on splice pack with terminals have a clip to remove it? So with what im looking at would i need a black casing to reinsert the spade terminals or you're saying simply cut and resplice or solder a whole splice pack? I will put it out there, the splice packs are only a temporary solution. Specific to SP122, I solder all those wires to a 12 gauge wire with a ring connector, solder a bolt to one of the holes on the battery support you see in the picture and bolted the ring connector to the bolt and grounded it right there. GM should have just done that to begin with, and our blood pressure would have been much lower. Now those two ground points are never going to fail. Then I cover the whole connector in plastic paint to protect it from the weather. For the ground connectors behind the headlights, I cut the OEM ground connectors, solder all the wires together to a ring connector, bolt the ring connector to the grounding post, solder the ring connector to the nut, and the nut to the post (essentially I solder the ground wires to the chassis). I got so mad chasing an electrical problem that I took drastic action. ![]() battery (voltage off the scale to the left), and someone gives you a jump. How hard is it to replace if the hard plastic casing is gone and just the metal spade terminals pushed onto white metal cap with prongs for the tied in ground connection?If you have a new splice pack just depin those connectors if they are still good and install the wires into the new splice pack.I stay away from butt connectors but solder and heat shrink instead. car, and thread the free ends through a hole in the back of the case. ![]() Im assuming battery acid can eat thru that black plastic over 24 years leaving the white metal top plastic piece with the spade terminals showing? I have an extra ground splice pack just not sure if theres a way to replace it without having to cut the wire and butt connect each wire to the other splice pack? The hard black plastic on mine is missing and its just the white metal cap and the wires with spade terminals pushed onto the one ground connection. I thought i read somewhere the maf and or TAC module ground is tied into it or is it just what you told me above? That helps alot i was wondering what all is tied into that mine is a bad shape from im assuming battery acid not sure if that would mess up plastic or not? Just metal and paint not sure. ![]()
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